It’s been a week and a half since I left the boys somewhere between Ayuun and Sisir. In my absence, the expedition family has grown considerably. The once small flock of three camels has now become seven, in addition to a group of Omani army special forces guys who bring with them, their own flock. And despite the incredible hospitality shown near the start, the goat dinner and festive campfire parties with late night dancing and camel meat, it too has continued to grow. The local Omani Sheikhs and Bedu’s have taken it upon themselves to ensure the expedition team receive the best possible exposure. I guess news travels fast in these remote desert climes. During my visit, I was invited to a party by the main Sheikh from Hauyma.  Despite being 200km from any civilization, great food and entertainment was enjoyed by all.

I met the boys at an oil station in the midst of the Rub al Khali desert, still within Omani territory although not far from the Saudi border. Read the full post >>

I love shooting this kind of expedition work. Some parts, I follow by car but most of it is on foot. Hauling all my kit, constantly seeking fresh perspectives, sprinting ahead for head on clean shots or up the banks for an unmissable panoramic view. I just love it.

 This expedition has been particularly special for cultural reasons. I’ve been based in the Middle East for 10 years, or longer if you count my childhood in Saudi yet encountering Arabic hospitality and tradition, at such close range is an absolute rarity. Cultural shows and hotel service, this is not, but rather true, authentic Arabic tradition.

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Another day, another adventure, which certainly proved easier for the media crew as most of journey was on gravel roads so we could travel by car. The team, reunited with their camels, was clearly relieved to get rid of the heavy loads.

The landscape changed dramatically, with lush fields and green trees being replaced by dry, hot and barren terrain as we moved away from the ocean. Read the full post >>

There is never a dull moment in the life of Adrian Hayes as we finally pushed forward with the ‘Footsteps of Thesiger’ expedition.  We had certainly had our fill of Salalah and the Hamdam Plaza Hotel. We picked up the story from where Adrian and the gang came off the camels … a symbolic spot! The proof, his blood, had all but washed away and it was clear that Adrian’s recollection of events were scant at best. Thanks to the bad weather and our past history with the camels, the first leg commenced on foot.

This also meant no Omani guides so the boys themselves carried all the basics for around 40km, up the wadi towards the first camp. It was a long push and, according to a local herder, the first of it’s kind in over 40 years.  Little did we know that he might have been right!
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‘Bukra’ has become the magic word that determines the continuation of this expedition. Translated from Arabic it means tomorrow, as in tomorrow we still start, weather depending albeit.

Our daily ritual now set in stone, we wake every morning at dawn, hit the roof of the hotel and gaze at the hills. Too often, they’re covered in patchy clouds and dense mist. We then call our weather man at Salalah airport and visit the weather sites. Shall we go? Yes or no? It’s been a no-go for four days in a row now. I wonder how much one can sleep, eat, drink coffee and wait. Read the full post >>

Six am on Monday morning saw the expedition commence, with the backdrop of a gorgeous sunrise and from the exact spot on the Indian Ocean where Wilfred Thesiger started his explorations across the great sands.

The early start was intended to beat the traffic heading towards the mountains and indeed all seemed to be running smoothly. Adrian, Ghafan and Saeed sat content on their camels, singing Arabic songs as they marched through town. Spectators were plenty, as were beeping cars.

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