On Tuesday 13th December, the boys rolled into town. As they entered Abu Dhabi, the capital of the UAE, they could see the skyscrapers rise from the horizon as they made their steady 6km per hour camel-backed approach. Under police escort, they crossed the busy Maqta bridge towards the corniche, where the 44 day, 1,600km-long expedition finally drew to a close.

It has been an awesome journey that will remain forever etched on their memories. They have successfully relived Thesiger’s original adventure … same routes, same experiences, original companions, similar challenges … Read the full post >>

Some shoots come together. Other do not. I‘ve just returned from what was intended to be a unique caving expedition, shooting new content for the next Petzl catalogue. They’ve just launched a series of new head torches and I was keen to use them as light sources inside the cave, shooting ‘available’ light as an alternative to flash heads. In theory it’s easier to focus and build the shot as you move head torches around, creating great shadows as you go. The seventh hole is part of the Selma Cave Plateau, which also includes Majlis al Jins, the world’s second biggest cave and one that could accommodate 50 jumbo jets. Seventh hole is as special as it is unique.

Access alone is tricky, starting with an amazing 200 metre abseil through a crack into a huge chamber followed by Read the full post >>

The boys are getting closer to home. Al Ain, the garden city, from Dubai, is just a little over a 1½ hour drive. In his book, Thesiger referred to as Jebel Hafeet as a dominant mountain rock in the midst of the dunes.

 A formal gathering was organised at the Jahili Fort involving two former companions of Thesiger himself, their names Salim bin Ghabaish and Salim bin Kabina.

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Home for less than a week and some much-needed family time, a positive 20-week scan of my unborn, catching up on office admin and my bumper caving trip (see previous post) ensued. As always, too much to do, too little time and before I knew it, I was back on the road again.

The boys have passed Umm Zamool and now tread firmly in the United Arab Emirates, home turf for Ghafan and Saeed. I know they were all looking forward to returning to home soil. Read the full post >>

It’s been a week and a half since I left the boys somewhere between Ayuun and Sisir. In my absence, the expedition family has grown considerably. The once small flock of three camels has now become seven, in addition to a group of Omani army special forces guys who bring with them, their own flock. And despite the incredible hospitality shown near the start, the goat dinner and festive campfire parties with late night dancing and camel meat, it too has continued to grow. The local Omani Sheikhs and Bedu’s have taken it upon themselves to ensure the expedition team receive the best possible exposure. I guess news travels fast in these remote desert climes. During my visit, I was invited to a party by the main Sheikh from Hauyma.  Despite being 200km from any civilization, great food and entertainment was enjoyed by all.

I met the boys at an oil station in the midst of the Rub al Khali desert, still within Omani territory although not far from the Saudi border. Read the full post >>

I love shooting this kind of expedition work. Some parts, I follow by car but most of it is on foot. Hauling all my kit, constantly seeking fresh perspectives, sprinting ahead for head on clean shots or up the banks for an unmissable panoramic view. I just love it.

 This expedition has been particularly special for cultural reasons. I’ve been based in the Middle East for 10 years, or longer if you count my childhood in Saudi yet encountering Arabic hospitality and tradition, at such close range is an absolute rarity. Cultural shows and hotel service, this is not, but rather true, authentic Arabic tradition.

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Another day, another adventure, which certainly proved easier for the media crew as most of journey was on gravel roads so we could travel by car. The team, reunited with their camels, was clearly relieved to get rid of the heavy loads.

The landscape changed dramatically, with lush fields and green trees being replaced by dry, hot and barren terrain as we moved away from the ocean. Read the full post >>

There is never a dull moment in the life of Adrian Hayes as we finally pushed forward with the ‘Footsteps of Thesiger’ expedition.  We had certainly had our fill of Salalah and the Hamdam Plaza Hotel. We picked up the story from where Adrian and the gang came off the camels … a symbolic spot! The proof, his blood, had all but washed away and it was clear that Adrian’s recollection of events were scant at best. Thanks to the bad weather and our past history with the camels, the first leg commenced on foot.

This also meant no Omani guides so the boys themselves carried all the basics for around 40km, up the wadi towards the first camp. It was a long push and, according to a local herder, the first of it’s kind in over 40 years.  Little did we know that he might have been right!
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‘Bukra’ has become the magic word that determines the continuation of this expedition. Translated from Arabic it means tomorrow, as in tomorrow we still start, weather depending albeit.

Our daily ritual now set in stone, we wake every morning at dawn, hit the roof of the hotel and gaze at the hills. Too often, they’re covered in patchy clouds and dense mist. We then call our weather man at Salalah airport and visit the weather sites. Shall we go? Yes or no? It’s been a no-go for four days in a row now. I wonder how much one can sleep, eat, drink coffee and wait. Read the full post >>

Six am on Monday morning saw the expedition commence, with the backdrop of a gorgeous sunrise and from the exact spot on the Indian Ocean where Wilfred Thesiger started his explorations across the great sands.

The early start was intended to beat the traffic heading towards the mountains and indeed all seemed to be running smoothly. Adrian, Ghafan and Saeed sat content on their camels, singing Arabic songs as they marched through town. Spectators were plenty, as were beeping cars.

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Eight years ago, I remember doing a presentation to the Land Rover PR and advertising agencies about an expedition covering the footsteps of the explorer, Sir Wilfred Thesinger. In the mid 1900′s, Thesinger twice walked the Empty Quarter, one of the largest deserts in the world encompassing Oman, Saudi Arabia and what is now the UAE. With a small caravan of camels and for months on end, he covered 1,500km of desert wilderness on foot, immersing himself with the locals throughout the journey.

Sir Wilfred sadly passed away nine years ago but he left with us a great source of inspiration and lot’s of nice books; the very same books and old maps that inspired me to pitch the idea for an overland trip in the Liwa Oasis.
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It’s amazing how quick your body can recover. Had really stiff legs after all the downhill running from yesterday. We could put our feet in a little stream at the village. Just walking down to the stream was really comical, hobbling and walking around like old man. Everyone doing the same act… Was really worried how my legs would recover but this morning they felt good again, must be the magical Arnika Gel.